Gazette Du Bon Ton, Arts, Modes & Frivolit - Lucien Vogel (directeur) 1920 - Aus É, Paris - First Editions Two finely bound volumes presenting Art-Deco Parisian fashion at its finest, comprising the entire run of Gazzette Du Bon Ton for 1920. Stunningly illustrated with 79 pochoir plates (many folding), 48 fashion sketches and hundreds of colour vignettes, and sketches throughout also coloured in pochoir. A luxurious collection of fashion articles, stunning art-deco pochoir plates, and sketches featuring the work of the best designers and artists of the day, including George Lepape, Pierre Brissaud, Charles Martin, André Marty, Raoul Dufy, Eduardo Bénito and many others.

Gazette du Bon Ton was the Parisian fashion magazine, active from 1912-1925 it fostered an elite aesthetic by signing exclusivity contracts with Paris' top couture houses and featuring gorgeous pochoir reproductions of the latest designs. The stated aim of the magazine was to push back on the hegemonic idea that women's fashion was inferior as an art form. Many of the artists chose to illustrate their women and designs in various narrative settings and situations rather than in blank spaces.
  Gazette du Bon Ton was only available to subscribers at a price which equals over US$1,000 per year in today's money, thereby creating a very exclusive image. Lucien Vogel, the editor aimed to establish fashion as an art form and also to create "good taste" for the Parisian elite. Publication was suspended in 1915, due to World War I, and resumed in 1920, continuing through 1925. Contributing artists included all the greatest names of the day such as Dufy, Bakst, Barbier and Brunelleschi, etc and these artists would depict the haute couture in a narrative and dramatic style using vivid colours and the pochoir technique on special handmade paper. Many of the designs were idealistic leisure scenes of the well-to-do, illustrating the latest creations of Paris vintage fashion houses such as Worth, Lanvin, Doucet, Poiret, Callot Soeurs, Paquin and Beers, often without explanatory text. The literary content was also of the highest quality with essays by well known art historians, playwrights and novelists of the day.’ - Gordon Ray, The Art Deco Book in France.

Two quarto volumes (binding size 25x20.7cm), pp. Tome I - [2] [2 (front thick card wrapper titled ‘
Janvier-Février 1920 3e Année - No. 1’)] [1 (half title)] [1] [1 (title page ‘1920 Tome I)] [1] viii (’Sommaire - Janvier-Février 1920 3e Année - No. 1’ & 7 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 36 [20 [insert ‘Soieries de Bianchini-Férier & Cie Dessinées par Raoul Dufy’ with light brown front and rear wrappers enclosing 8 sheets (Croquis no.1-8)]]; ix-xi (’Sommaire - Mars 1920 3e Année - No. 2’, 3 pages of ads, and one plate, illustrated in colour), 37-68, [20 [insert ‘Costumes dessinées par Fauconnet pour Le Conte d’Hiver de Shakspeare’ with an introduction by Jean Cocteau’ [2] [8 sheets - Croquis no.9-16] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]] xiii-xvi [4 pages of ads and one plate, illustrated in colour); xvii-xxiv (’Sommaire du Numéro 3 - Avril 1920 3e Année’, 7 pages of ads illustrated in colour and one b&w insert) 69-100 [20 [insert ‘Croquis de Modes d’Été par Mario Simon d’aprés les Modèles de Beer, D Oeuillet Lanvin...’ [2] [8 sheets - croquis no.17-20] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]]; xxv-xxxiv (’Sommaire du Numéro 4 - Mai 1920 3e Année’, 9 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 101-132 [6 [insert ‘Robes pour lÉté 1920’ [2] [1 long folding sheet - croquis no.21-24] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]]; xxxv-xlii (’Sommaire du Numéro 5 - Juin 1920 3e Année’, 7 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 133-164, [12 [insert ‘Aménagement d’une Loge d’Actrice par Süe & Mare’ [2] [4 sheets - croquis no.25-28] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]; iv (’Table des Matières - Premier Semestre (Janvier à Juin 1920’) v-vi (Table des planches et croquis hors-texte) [4].

Tome II - [2] [2 (front thick card wrapper titled ‘No.6 - 1920 3e Année’)] [1 (half title)] [1] [1 (title page ‘
1920 Tome II)] [1] xliii-l (’Sommaire du Numéro 6 - Juillet 1920 3e Année’ & 7 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 165-176; li-lx (’Sommaire du Numéro 7 - Mil-neuf-cent-vingt 3e Année’ & 9 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 177-228 [12 [insert ‘Un Studio un Coin de Feu un Chambre à Coucher et une Chambre d’Enfants de Francis Jourdain’ [2] [4 sheets - croquis 29-32] [1] [1 (explication des planches)], [12 [insert ‘La Mode pour l’Automne 1920 dessinée par Siméon ...’ [2] [4 sheets - croquis xxxiii-xxxvi] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]; 229-236 lxi-lxx (’Sommaire du Numéro 8 - Mil-neuf-cent-vingt 3e Année’, 9 pages of ads illustrated in colour, and one full colour plate) 237-260 [12 [insert ‘Toiles de Tournon, Lampas, Brocarts et Brocatelles - Dessinées par Raoul Dufy, éxécutés par Bianchini et Férier’ [2] [4 sheets - planches xxxvii-xl[ [1 (’Les Arums’)]] [1 (explication des planches)]; lxxi-lxxx (’Sommaire du Numéro 9 - Mil-neuf-cent-vingt 3e Année’, 9 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 261-292 [12 [insert ‘Une Salle de Bains et deux pages de croquis par Ruhlman’ [2] [4 sheets - planches xli-xliv [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]; lxxxi-lxxxviii (’Sommaire du Numéro 10 - Mil-neuf-cent-vingt 3e Année’, 7 pages of ads illustrated in colour) 293-324 [12 [insert ‘Un Boudoir et quelque meubles par Bagge & Huguet’ [2] [4 sheets - planches xlv-xlviii] [1] [1 (explication des planches)]]; iv (’Table des Matières - Deuxième Semestre (Juillet à Décembre 1920’) [1] v-vii (Table des planches et croquis hors-texte) [3].

Tome I -
Janvier-Fevrier 1-8; Mars 9-15 (1 folding); Avril 16-23; Mai 24-31; Juin 32-39.
Tome II -
Juillet 40-42 43-47; Juillet 42 & Septembre 48-50; No.7 51-55; No.8 56-63, No.9 64-71; No.10 72-79.
  Bound to style in three quarter navy blue morocco over gilt marbled blue paper covered boards, spines with raised bands and lettered in gilt, top edges gilt, alternate hand-marbled endpapers, silk bookmark ribbons,   Condition: Fine in fine bindings.   Ref: 111234   Price: HK$ 45,000